Chateau de Fonbel, Saint-Emilion, 2020 OLDCAP but evolving like an Oloroso—and

but evolving like an Oloroso—and Valdespino’s Viejo C

gneiss and loess soils

led by Marco de Grazia

showcasing Oregon’s potential

It’s bright and zippy

Chateau de Fonbel, Saint-Emilion, 2020 OLDCAP but evolving like an Oloroso—andA back door way to drink the hands behind Chateau Ausone. Fonbel belongs to the Vauthier family, the same people who make one of Saint Emilion's most legendary wines, and it lets you taste their touch for a fraction of the outlay. The 2020 is Merlot led with Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, and a rare splash of old vine Carmenere, and about 70% of it was raised in tank rather than barrel to keep the fruit vivid and unforced. It was also the